Archive for November, 2009

Kejetia Market – Kumasi, Ghana (Again)

November 6th, 2009

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I took another stroll through the market today hoping to find some avocados, or pictures, or both.  I struck out on avocados but here are a few pictures that worked for me.  Leah described the market in one of our previous posts, but I want to emphasize again that the pictures alone do not do this market justice.  I was there in the heat of the day and the smells were intense.  The best analogy I can think of is that walking through the market is to your sense of smell what watching a Stan Brackage film is to your vision.  Raw meat, raw fish, smoked fish, cheese, and body odor all contribute their perfume.  The market is definitely an impressive place – you can find just about anything you might need there.  Our guidebook describes Ghana as being economically vibrant which I think is accurate – it seems like everyone is busy either buying or selling something.  I’m not sure how anyone can stop to buy anything in the market though – I felt like I was always being pushed along by whoever was behind me.  I found that after about a half an hour I was completely overstimulated and had to get out.  I have a similar experience with Las Vegas, but I can last for about a day there.  A white man with a camera generates a lot of protest from the market vendors, especially the women who preside over the small fish (below left), although I did have quite a few people ask me to come photograph them, as the woman below-right did.

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Kumisi in Black & White

November 6th, 2009

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I have had mixed reception from Ghanaians about having their pictures taken.  I have passed up a few great pictures of people that refused to have their picture taken when asked.  Some of the younger adutls actually ask me to take their picture, and children often demand that I take their picture (such as the kids on the bottom right)!  In some parts of the central market, the mere presence of a camera is cause for loud protest.  Some of my favorite photos from the streets and the markets have been “shot from the hip” – taken without looking through the viewfinder so people are unaware.  I have to guesstimate what the camera can see so it doesn’t always work out, but the picture on the top left was shot like this, as were most of my pictures from the market.

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A little vulgar…

November 5th, 2009

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No urinating on hospital grounds, please.

Kente Cloth Weaving in Adanwomase, Ghana

November 5th, 2009

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Our final stop this weekend was to the town of Adanwomase to watch the production of Kente Cloth, which is a traditional, colorful, woven cloth.  With the help of the Peace Corp and other volunteers this town has been set up for community based tourism to watch the production of the Kente Cloth.  We were taken on a tour all through the village to different shops and homes to see where the thread is sold, wound on to spools, wrapped, and then to a central weaving area.  Here traditional weaving looms are used and we were able to watch this beautiful cloth come to life.  I was even able to try the loom myself!  The loom is operated by pedals hanging down on a string.  You put the string between your toes and use your feet to move the cloth up and down to make different patterns.  There were children learning how to weave and they were much better than myself!  All I made was a plain black cloth, no fancy patterns.  The cloth is truly beautiful and it is amazing that is all made on the traditional weaving looms. – Leah

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Besease Shrine – Ashanti, Ghana

November 4th, 2009

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On our way back from Lake Bomsomtwe we went to the Besease Shrine, a traditional fetish shrine, near the town of Ejisu.  Each of these shrines is a home for a particular spirit, called obosom, that mediates between mortals and the supreme god Nyame.  The obosom inhabits the shrine and the fetish priest becomes possessed by the spirit and acts as its mouthpiece.  A fetish priest is called an okomfo and is one of the most important member of the community who works closely with the chief.  Christianity is the predominate religion in this area, but in the rural areas many people adhere to both practices.  There are only ten traditional fetish shrines left that show the traditional Ashanti architecture and are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  The Besease Shrine was recently restored and acts as a museum describing the local traditions and architecture.  The caretaker was a very friendly older gentleman who was just thrilled to show us the shrine and have his photograph taken!  I am not sure if they see many visitors, but is well worth a trip if you ever have a chance.

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